Sunday, 31 March 2013
Full Moon landscape.
I just had to blog this image. I think it just happened to fall into place. The clouds, full moon and the large tree with the brown tinted branches seem to make the scene a little eerie.
Monday, 25 March 2013
Moon through cloud 20130325
Its been very cloudy over the past few weeks but looking out into the garden I noticed the Moon was trying to shine. I couldn't resist a shot at the wonderful cloud pattern.
33% Waxing Moon 20130317
Taken with a Skywatcher 500mm F7 refractor and Canon 40D Dslr Afocal.
Shutter speed of 1/30 sec ISO 250.
The Crater with the central spot is Theophilus which is 110km across.
Shutter speed of 1/30 sec ISO 250.
The Crater with the central spot is Theophilus which is 110km across.
Friday, 15 March 2013
Comet Panstarrs and the Moon 2013/03/14
I tried again tonight to get a descent image of this comet and lukily the skys cleared for a short time. The comet was supposed to be 10 degrees up from the horizon and as the sun set I scanned the sky with my binoculars with no luck. This comet is a bit dissapointing for me as I remember Hale-bopp in 1995 lighting up the sky even with the naked eye and I was expecting a repeat.
Finally after nearly an hour of searching the sky comet Panstarrs appeared as if by magic from behind a whispy cloud. It was sitting in a clear area of the sky with some thin cloud approachig.
I had already focused my 500mm skywatcher refractor on the moon using live view on my 40d so I rattled off as many shots as possible with different ISO settings from 100 to 1600.
The final comet shot was 2.5 seconds at ISO 400. F7
This lovely waxing Moon 10% lit was to far away from the comet to be in the same shot so here it is on its own. The same scope and afocal camera was used set at ISO 100 at 1/80th of a second F7.
Wednesday, 13 March 2013
Comet C/20122 L4 (Panstarrs) on 13/03/2013
Finally after 4 days of disapointing cloudy skies it was partially cloudy. I took lots of images of the bright star just below the moon thinkung it was the comet. Browsing through the images later, I discovered the comet lurking near the horizon. Its much smaller than I thought it would be but at least I've got I my first image of a comet.
Image was taken using a Canon 40D.
Settings were 4 second exposure, Iso 800, F/4 and focal length 111mm
Friday, 15 February 2013
M42 with round stars at last.
At last after 2 years of trying to get round stars, this is a stack of 47 images unguided. The "seeing" was poor and the wind was a bit gusty so I pulled out about 10% of the images. My Polar setup was really good so I just did a 2 star align and let the scope guide itself.

The problem in the past was a sticky gearbox in the base of the Etx making the stars jump into a line on the final image. I simply tightened the bearings and lubricated the gears before adjusting the gearbox position and it now runs really smoothly.
To check how smooth it was moving I engaged PHD guiding and ran the graph below. I think the scope has been sticky from new as the graph always jumped very erratically before alarming out.
This has shown me that its the quality and smoothness of the mount is very important if round stars are needed.
Thursday, 7 February 2013
Betelgeuse 06/02/2012
Monday, 4 February 2013
My DIY Dew Heaters for just a few £'s
I thought I would share my Dew Heater design as it was so easy and cheap to make.
Without the battery these heaters cost me less than £10.
Dew heaters can be expensive and often need expensive controllers to adjust the temperature output of each heater. The idea is to heat the corrector plate end of the telescope just enough to replace the heat lost to space thus stopping dew from forming on the lens. Much like the dew on your car windscreen collects overnight.
My aim was to design a simple and cheap 12 volt system without the fancy heat controllers.This would save me using a 240 volt hair dryer with is obvious dangers outside in the damp night conditions.
I worked out from research on the net that I needed somewhere between 0.5 watts and 1.5 watts of heat on my finder scope and between 1 watt and 2.75 watts on my 105mm dia Meade etx.
If you look at the diagram this can be achieved by wiring both dew heaters together across a 12 volt battery (mines an old car battery). To adjust the heat output I simply use a direct connection across the battery for maximum heat or add either one or two 10 ohm resistors in line next to the battery as shown in the diagram below. SIMPLE.
The wiring is looped back around the heater band so that it can be easily attached.
The parts list shows roughly what I needed.
The resistors are really cheap. They come in bags of 20 and you only need 11 x 4.7 ohm resistors
and 13 x 10 ohm resistors for the whole job.
Just solder the resistors together exactly like the diagram and stick them on the inside of the foam using duck tape. Connect them to the battery car with speaker wire and watch out for any short circuits.
A cheap foam camping matt was used as the band to carry the resistors. It would make loads of bands.
I use self adhesive Velcro on each end to easily attach and detach the heater bands.
Last night I used the heaters connected to a car battery continuously for 5 hours at between +3 and -2 degrees with no dew on my lenses. I did not see any reduction in image quality due to the heat.
Please note that I am not an electrician and if you choose to copy this design you do so at your own risk .If wired incorrectly the resistors or wiring could overheat.
Without the battery these heaters cost me less than £10.
Dew heaters can be expensive and often need expensive controllers to adjust the temperature output of each heater. The idea is to heat the corrector plate end of the telescope just enough to replace the heat lost to space thus stopping dew from forming on the lens. Much like the dew on your car windscreen collects overnight.
My aim was to design a simple and cheap 12 volt system without the fancy heat controllers.This would save me using a 240 volt hair dryer with is obvious dangers outside in the damp night conditions.
I worked out from research on the net that I needed somewhere between 0.5 watts and 1.5 watts of heat on my finder scope and between 1 watt and 2.75 watts on my 105mm dia Meade etx.
If you look at the diagram this can be achieved by wiring both dew heaters together across a 12 volt battery (mines an old car battery). To adjust the heat output I simply use a direct connection across the battery for maximum heat or add either one or two 10 ohm resistors in line next to the battery as shown in the diagram below. SIMPLE.
The parts list shows roughly what I needed.
The resistors are really cheap. They come in bags of 20 and you only need 11 x 4.7 ohm resistors
and 13 x 10 ohm resistors for the whole job.
Just solder the resistors together exactly like the diagram and stick them on the inside of the foam using duck tape. Connect them to the battery car with speaker wire and watch out for any short circuits.
A cheap foam camping matt was used as the band to carry the resistors. It would make loads of bands.
I use self adhesive Velcro on each end to easily attach and detach the heater bands.
Last night I used the heaters connected to a car battery continuously for 5 hours at between +3 and -2 degrees with no dew on my lenses. I did not see any reduction in image quality due to the heat.
Please note that I am not an electrician and if you choose to copy this design you do so at your own risk .If wired incorrectly the resistors or wiring could overheat.
Sunday, 3 February 2013
M42 Last night poor seeing?
Poor seeing in the upper atmosphere and -2 degrees made it a difficult night with the scope. I only managed 6 images worth saving and stacked them to produce this image. I spent most of the time indoors shooting tethered to the unmodified DSLR camera.
6 x 30secs subs.
3 darks
3 lights
2 bias.
Analysing the reject subs for "jerky star trails" on my etx made me strip the RA drive today. I have found the base was tight to turn and the gear train sticking.
6 x 30secs subs.
3 darks
3 lights
2 bias.
Analysing the reject subs for "jerky star trails" on my etx made me strip the RA drive today. I have found the base was tight to turn and the gear train sticking.
Monday, 28 January 2013
Last Nights Full Moon
Last Nights Full Moon is often referred to as the "Full Wolf Moon" as it was in the sky when wolves could be heard calling in the snow. Some call it the Old Full Moon.
For me the full moon always looks stunning as it hangs majestically in the sky. However its the worst time to image it. Flat and disappointing when the images are downloaded. It lacks detail because the sunlight is not casting any shadows. I've tried HDR but it looks unreal so processing this image is quite simple. Mainly contrast improvements using curves with an additional layer, its blending mode set to soft light and 20% opacity. It seem to be the best I can do without a lunar filter.
For me the full moon always looks stunning as it hangs majestically in the sky. However its the worst time to image it. Flat and disappointing when the images are downloaded. It lacks detail because the sunlight is not casting any shadows. I've tried HDR but it looks unreal so processing this image is quite simple. Mainly contrast improvements using curves with an additional layer, its blending mode set to soft light and 20% opacity. It seem to be the best I can do without a lunar filter.
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